Mahlab, That Curious Middle Eastern Spice

It’s a curious thing…that spice from the Middle East called “Mahlab” in Arabic. The Glossary in my cookbook, explains it as “pale hard kernels derived from the pit of the small wild black cherry tree.” The St. Lucie cherry tree grows in the Mediterranean region. This spice, in its whole form, is smaller than a pea and light tan in color.

I had always wondered what gave my grandmother’s pastries that marvelous slightly almond and cherry flavor with a faint and subtle floral note that was so addictive!

Funny story: When I was young and learning how to make my Sitto’s best pastry, a buttery soft turnover, I’d call her many times over for advice. Well, one day, as I was kneading the dough after having added the Mahlab spice, I was horrified to find that that those little hard pea-like things didn’t dissolve! I called my grandmother in a panic as I was staring at about five pounds of dough. She laughingly explained in Arabic that I’d need to grind the Mahlab spice into a fine powder before adding it to the liquids in her recipe.

That got me to thinking that other young cooks and bakers, like me, would make a similar mistake. I filed it away in the back of my mind and years later, when I decided to write the first cookbook, I remembered that important lesson! It is to be precise with your instructions. What I now knew as an experienced cook, I learned through trial and error. And so, I made sure I considered that in each recipe I compiled.

Now, years later, this wonderful spice, unique to the Arab world, is the one spice I would be lost without. If I had to quickly pack up my kitchen, it’s what I would surely bring with me. Mahlab is available at Middle Eastern grocery stores and online. It is sometimes spelled as “Mahleb” or “Mahlep.” Find it whole or ground, but always choose whole if you can. If it’s already ground, it will quickly lose its flavoring. Grind it whole in a food processor or spice grinder and its uniquely fragrant elements will create the most delicious pastries for you, just as they have for my grandmother’s Syrian sweets and her homemade String cheese. It works well with dairy, even elevating Rice Pudding! My grandmother did warn me about its potency and I remember that she told me to be careful with the amount used, as it can be bitter if overdone.

You’ll be surprised how distinctive in aroma and taste this curious spice is and how it can boost your baked goods above the ordinary! And those turnovers? You’ll find the recipe for Sitto’s Aleppo Turnovers in the cookbook. I hope your family loves them like we do!