Nataef — Sitto's Kitchen

I was just a little girl when I first saw the amazing Nataef being made by my Sitto. I couldn’t quite reach the counter, but I watched Sitto as she beat the mixture by hand. Then I started to catch the aroma. It was nothing I had ever smelled before, a little like licorice and when I caught a glimpse, it was whiter than snow! I watched Sitto make it a few times after that and in later years, after yearning for it after it became my favorite Syrian sweet, I asked Sitto to make it again. Sitto answered that she couldn’t get the root anymore. In the early years, this was gotten at the local pharmacy and now it was almost impossible to find.

Years later, while living in the Midwest, I spoke to Sitto about Nataef by phone. At this point in time, she no longer made it and neither did her friends. In those early years, my mother-in-law had come out to the Midwest for a few weeks and to my amazement, brought that root with her. She called it “soapbark.” I was very excited as we made the Nataef and I was sure to write down her recipe.

Later, left to my own devices in the Midwest, well before the Internet, that root was not available anywhere. I told Sitto that I had discovered Divinity frosting in one of my cookbooks and wondered if I use cream of tartar whether I could attempt the Nataef using it. She didn’t know, but was glad I was giving it a try. I plunged on and tried it. It worked very well, but, that special aroma and unique taste and super whiteness were not there.

Even later on, I came across an article in the 90s about the “amazing foaming root” of the Middle East and I read it knowing I knew more about it than the author! It was there that I realized how exotic this root was to most people. It seems that what we had enjoyed for generations as part of our heritage was a major mystery to even knowledgeable food scholars.

That special ingredient is called “Soapwort Root.” I set to work trying to find it in 2009 while writing the first version of the cookbook. There it was and I made sure I documented it in the “Where to Buy It” chapter in my cookbook as well as in the glossary. There’s more about it in the bibliography as well.

Aleppo Stuffed Cookies with Marshmallow Topping

Back to the amazing foaming root! The first time I made it myself, it was an exciting but laborious process of chopping, soaking and boiling the root and using that foam and “nectar” as a thickening agent. I added it to the beaten egg whites followed by the warm sugar syrup in a stream as the mixer whirred. The mixture then produced mountains of marshmallowy confection! All those early memories came rushing back! On its own, before the sugar syrup is added, it is distinctly tart and subtly licorice tasting. Once it’s all beaten together, it is truly, whiter than white. Refrigerated, it will keep for a week or more and only separates. Stirring it well will bring it back to its original glory.

In my cookbook, I have included my mother-in-law’s original traditional recipe for Nataef using the Soapwort root. And knowing that it may not be convenient for some to recreate it, I also included my shortcut version using cream of tartar. Both recipes begin on page 139. Do make this, at least once, and give homage to those who came before us. When you read about this root, you’ll be amazed at the first of us to try this delicious mixture.